Paeonia Lactiflora Multifunctional NADES Extracts for Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Applications

Nowadays, a growing interest and demand for multifunctional (i.e. anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antifungal effects) and sustainable ingredients, derived from flowers and plants, has been observed in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. In this context NADES (Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents) represent promising and suitable green solvents for the extraction of bioactive compounds from botanical matrices. They can be easily obtained from naturally occurring molecules, disclosing high extraction efficiency, safety and intrinsic dermo cosmetic properties1. Considering these statements and our interest in ecofriendly products and microwave (MW) processes2, the aim of this research was the recovery of bioactive compounds from Paeonia lactiflora3 by microwave mediated NADES extraction. Several eutectic mixtures were selected and prepared3, choosing betaine as the food grade HBA (hydrogen bond acceptor) and glycerol and/or sorbitol as the HBDs (hydrogen bond donor). Paeonia fresh petals and leaves were extracted in 5 minutes at 75° (matrix/solvent ratio 1:10), using a MW multimode cavity prototype, equipped with a control unit that allows managing process parameters (emitted power, and temperature setpoint). The extracts, assessed in terms of radical scavenging activity (RSA), phenolic content (TPC), and stability, showed interesting and performing results. Additionally, the antimicrobial and preservative properties were evaluated by the minimum inhibitory concentration for bacterial growth (MIC), disclosing an antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus and epidermidis. The combination of NADES properties with the biological activity of Paeonia lactiflora gave rise to a synergic performance of NADES-based extracts. The result is a ready-to-use, antioxidant, auto preserved natural ingredient that can be directly added in a cosmetic and pharmaceutical topic formulation, lending an overall functionality and efficacy to the entire complex. Methods and results will be reported and compared.