Research Background and Context In recent years, sustainability has emerged as a pressing global concern, driven by escalating environmental degradation, resource depletion, climate change, social inequality, and systemic disruptions such as the COVID-19 pandemic. These interconnected crises have intensified calls for more responsible consumption and production, placing mounting pressure on industries across sectors to embed sustainability into their strategies and operations—not only to comply with evolving regulations but also to meet the expectations of increasingly informed and ethically aware consumers. The fast fashion industry (FFI) lies at the heart of this sustainability discourse. Built on rapid production cycles, low-cost manufacturing, and trend-driven obsolescence, the FFI has democratised access to style but also normalised an unsustainable mode of consumption characterised by frequent purchasing, short product lifespans, and accelerated disposal. As a result, excessive water use, carbon emissions, textile waste, and exploitative labour practices remain widespread, prompting growing scrutiny from policymakers, civil society, and consumers alike. In response, many fast fashion brands have begun to incorporate sustainability into their business practices, strategies, and market positioning. From eco-conscious product lines and sustainable sourcing to green certifications and ethical campaigns, brands are increasingly trying to align with consumer expectations and reposition themselves as socially and environmentally responsible. Marketing efforts have evolved accordingly, positioning sustainability not merely as a corporate responsibility, but as a value proposition that offers direct benefits to the consumer—such as better product quality, ethical assurance, and reduced environmental impact. However, these developments remain highly contested. Critics argue that many such initiatives amount to greenwashing, offering superficial improvements while leaving the core business model of overproduction and overconsumption intact. Simultaneously, consumer behaviour in this domain is marked by contradiction. While a growing segment of consumers expresses strong ethical concerns, this rarely translates into actual purchasing decisions—a phenomenon widely recognised as the attitude-behaviour (A-B) gap. Although external barriers like price sensitivity, trend pressure, and convenience have been well-documented, less attention has been paid to the underlying cognitive, emotional, and relational dynamics that might help close this gap and promote more meaningful sustainable consumption. Given the inherently consumer-driven nature of the FFI, understanding how sustainability shapes consumer behaviour is both timely and important. While brands increasingly integrate sustainability into customer-facing strategies, questions remain regarding how consumers interpret these efforts, whether sustainability meaningfully motivates consumption choices, and how it influences perceptions of brands. At the same time, persistent inconsistencies between consumers’ ethical values and their actual behaviour point to the need for greater attention to the psychological mechanisms underlying sustainable decision-making. Responding to these gaps, this thesis adopts a multi-dimensional perspective to examine the motivational, relational, and psychological pathways through which sustainability operates in fast fashion—spanning how sustainability acts as a driver of consumer behaviour, how brand-led initiatives shape consumer-brand relationships, and how internal mechanisms may help mitigate the enduring A-B gap across different market contexts. Research Objectives The thesis is guided by three core research objectives: First, to conduct a systematic literature review to explore how existing literature has studied sustainability as a driver influencing consumer behaviour within the FFI, identifying key theoretical and methodological perspectives, empirical patterns, and future research directions. Second, to empirically examine how customer-centric sustainability (CCS)—comprising economic, environmental, and social dimensions—influences brand trust, affective brand commitment, and brand loyalty intentions among fast fashion consumers through a sequential mediation model. The study also examines the moderating role of individual sustainability concern and compares patterns across Indian and Italian consumers. Third, to explore how psychological dispositions such as mindfulness influence the alignment between ethical intentions and sustainable consumption behaviour among Indian fast fashion consumers, and to examine the internal and external barriers that may still inhibit value-action consistency, even among mindful individuals. Structure of the Thesis The thesis is organised into three primary chapters that correspond to the overarching research objectives. The first chapter introduces the research background, the purpose of the thesis, state of the art, theoretical foundations, and research design and methodology. It outlines the relevance of the FFI as a research context and sets the stage for the empirical investigations. The second chapter presents the core empirical body of the thesis, comprising three distinct yet interconnected studies. Each study is developed in the format of a standalone journal article, reflecting a specific research objective. While methodologically diverse, the studies collectively contribute to a broader understanding of how sustainability influences consumer decision-making, brand engagement, and ethical consumption patterns within the FFI. The third chapter offers a final integrative discussion. It summarises the key insights emerging from the three studies, outlines their theoretical and managerial relevance, and discusses the study’s limitations and potential avenues for future research. Research Output Chapter Two of this thesis presents the primary research contributions through three interrelated studies that collectively examine the complex relationship between sustainability and consumer behaviour in the FFI. Each study addresses a distinct research objective using a different methodological lens. The key outputs of these studies are summarised below. The first study entitled, “Decoding Sustainable Drivers: A Systematic Literature Review on Sustainability-Induced Consumer Behaviour in the Fast Fashion Industry” is a systematic literature review that consolidates and critically examines scholarly research on sustainability and consumer behaviour within the FFI. Drawing on 108 peer-reviewed articles published up until 2025, the study synthesises how sustainability has been conceptualised and empirically examined as a driver of consumer decision-making. Guided by Blackwell et al.’s (2006) consumer decision-making model, the review develops a thematic framework comprising four key dimensions: (1) marketing strategies, (2) individual influences, (3) group influences, and (4) situational influences. The findings reveal a strong concentration on individual-level factors and marketing-led sustainability cues, alongside comparatively limited attention to social, situational, and post-purchase dynamics. The review further highlights persistent theoretical fragmentation, an overreliance on attitudinal constructs, and the enduring attitude-behaviour gap in fast fashion consumption. In addition, the analysis points to under-researched consumer segments and a strong bias towards Western market contexts, calling for more culturally diverse, context-sensitive, and methodologically integrated approaches to studying sustainability in the FFI. By identifying these conceptual, methodological, and contextual gaps, the study provides a structured synthesis of the field and outlines key directions for future research. The second study entitled, “Exploring Customer-Centric Sustainability and Brand Relationships in Fast Fashion: A Cross-National Study of Indian and Italian Consumers” investigates how Customer-Centric Sustainability (CCS)—comprising economic, environmental, and social dimensions—influences consumer-brand relationships in the FFI. Drawing on relationship marketing theory (commitment-trust theory), the study examines a sequential mediation model in which CCS perceptions shape brand trust, which subsequently fosters affective brand commitment and brand loyalty intentions. Sustainability concern is incorporated as a moderating variable, reflecting consumers’ ethical orientation and information processing depth. Using survey data from 819 consumers in India and Italy, the study applies Structural Equation Modelling (SEM) to test the hypothesised pathways and assess cross-national variations. The findings indicate that economic CCS consistently predicts brand trust in both countries, while environmental CCS shows no significant impact—highlighting consumer scepticism toward green marketing. Social CCS positively influences trust among high-concern consumers in India and across the broader sample in Italy. The sequential trust-commitment-loyalty pathway is confirmed in both markets, with moderation effects evident only in India. By unpacking both relational and motivational mechanisms, this study advances understanding of how consumer-facing sustainability strategies shape brand perceptions and loyalty. Its cross-national lens offers valuable insights for brands aiming to align global sustainability messaging with local consumer expectations in the ethically contested fast fashion sector. The third study entitled, “Bridging the Attitude-Behaviour Gap: Can Mindfulness Make Fashion Consumption More Sustainable? Insights from Indian Fast Fashion Consumers” explores whether mindfulness can help reduce the persistent attitude-behaviour (A-B) gap in sustainable fashion consumption. Focusing on Indian fast fashion consumers, the study examines how present-moment awareness, emotional regulation, and intentionality influence the alignment between ethical values and actual consumption behaviour. Using in-depth interviews with 16 consumers, the study reveals that mindfulness can reduce impulsive purchasing and encourage more reflective decision-making. However, these effects are highly context-dependent. Mindfulness alone does not guarantee sustainable behaviour unless it is supported by sustainability knowledge, moral intention, and enabling external conditions. A key contribution of the study is the conceptual distinction between practical mindfulness—which supports impulse control and general restraint—and ethical mindfulness, which is explicitly value-driven and oriented toward social and environmental responsibility. Only ethically grounded mindfulness was found to meaningfully narrow the A-B gap. The findings further highlight how structural and social constraints—such as affordability, peer norms, aesthetic appeal, and limited access to credible sustainable alternatives—can undermine even mindful intentions. By integrating mindfulness with theories of planned behaviour, cognitive dissonance, and bounded ethicality, the study offers a multi-layered explanation of why value-action gaps persist in fast fashion. Situated in an under-researched emerging market context, the study extends sustainability and consumer behaviour scholarship by demonstrating how psychological capacities interact with structural conditions to shape ethical consumption. It positions mindfulness not as a standalone solution, but as a potential enabler of sustainable behaviour that must be ethically anchored and supported by broader systemic change. Conclusion and Research Implications This thesis set out to explore how sustainability influences consumer behaviour in the FFI, with a particular focus on motivational, relational, and psychological mechanisms across both developed and emerging market contexts. Through a mixed-method research design comprising a systematic literature review, a quantitative cross-cultural survey, and a qualitative interview study, the research offers novel theoretical contributions and actionable managerial insights. From a theoretical perspective, the thesis addresses key gaps in the existing literature by adopting an integrative, multi-theoretical lens. First, the systematic literature review in Study 1 offers an integrated synthesis of existing knowledge on sustainability-driven consumer behaviour in the FFI. By organising fragmented insights through a structured decision-making framework, the review highlights both dominant drivers and underexplored areas, thereby providing a solid conceptual foundation for future empirical research. It also draws attention to the dominance and limitations of traditional theoretical models—such as the Theory of Planned Behaviour (TPB), Theory of Reasoned Action (TRA), and the Triple Bottom Line (TBL)—which are often applied in isolation and fail to fully capture the emotional, contextual, and relational complexities of sustainable consumption. The study also calls for more culturally diverse and methodologically integrated approaches that reflect the nuances of global fashion consumption. Study 2 extends relationship marketing theory, particularly the Commitment-Trust framework, by conceptualising Customer-Centric Sustainability (CCS) as a trust-building mechanism that drives affective commitment and loyalty intentions. By integrating Elaboration Likelihood Model (ELM) and testing a sequential mediation and moderation model across India and Italy, it contributes to a more nuanced understanding of how sustainability operates as a relational and motivational lever in fast fashion branding. Study 3 deepens the psychological lens by exploring how mindfulness—as a trait involving present-moment awareness and emotional regulation—can bridge the attitude-behaviour gap in ethical consumption. The study introduces a distinction between practical and ethical mindfulness and shows how internal capacities must be supported by external enablers to translate into sustainable behaviour—especially in affordability-driven consumption environments. Together, the three studies contribute to advancing sustainability, marketing, and consumer behaviour literature by refining existing theories, integrating multiple perspectives, and extending established models into underexplored settings such as emerging markets and ethically complex industries. This thesis also offers actionable insights for brands, policymakers, and educators seeking to promote more sustainable consumer behaviour in the FFI. Across all three studies, the findings underscore the importance of embedding sustainability into both operational practices and consumer-facing strategies in ways that are credible, transparent, and culturally resonant. Fast fashion brands should prioritise product quality, affordability, and durability—economic cues that consistently build trust and foster loyalty across market contexts. To overcome consumer scepticism and avoid perceptions of greenwashing, environmental and social sustainability initiatives must be supported by visible, measurable, and verifiable actions. Circular economy strategies, such as resale platforms, repair services, and recycling schemes, can help brands pivot toward hybrid models that balance affordability with responsibility. Brands should also leverage social media, influencers, and storytelling to amplify sustainability messaging, while using positive reinforcement mechanisms—such as loyalty rewards and eco-discounts—to encourage mindful consumption. In emerging markets, where consumer concern varies, communication should be segmented: functional messaging for low-concern consumers and value-driven storytelling for high-concern segments. In more institutionalised markets, consistent and credible sustainability narratives are essential to maintaining brand reputation. Beyond managerial strategies, the research highlights the need for structural and psychological enablers of ethical consumption. Policymakers and educators are urged to support transparent sustainability standards, regulate misleading claims, and promote sustainability and mindfulness education to cultivate value-aligned, reflective consumption from an early age. Together, these measures can help align business models with evolving consumer expectations and support a more responsible and resilient fashion ecosystem. Collectively, the thesis calls for a more holistic and context-sensitive approach to promoting sustainable consumption—one that integrates marketing, psychological, and relational perspectives to engage consumers in more enduring and ethically aligned ways.
SUSTAINABILITY AND CONSUMER BEHAVIOUR IN THE FAST FASHION INDUSTRY: A SYSTEMATIC REVIEW AND EMPIRICAL INSIGHTS FROM INDIA AND ITALY
MATHEW, MANJITHA
2026-05-22
Abstract
Research Background and Context In recent years, sustainability has emerged as a pressing global concern, driven by escalating environmental degradation, resource depletion, climate change, social inequality, and systemic disruptions such as the COVID-19 pandemic. These interconnected crises have intensified calls for more responsible consumption and production, placing mounting pressure on industries across sectors to embed sustainability into their strategies and operations—not only to comply with evolving regulations but also to meet the expectations of increasingly informed and ethically aware consumers. The fast fashion industry (FFI) lies at the heart of this sustainability discourse. Built on rapid production cycles, low-cost manufacturing, and trend-driven obsolescence, the FFI has democratised access to style but also normalised an unsustainable mode of consumption characterised by frequent purchasing, short product lifespans, and accelerated disposal. As a result, excessive water use, carbon emissions, textile waste, and exploitative labour practices remain widespread, prompting growing scrutiny from policymakers, civil society, and consumers alike. In response, many fast fashion brands have begun to incorporate sustainability into their business practices, strategies, and market positioning. From eco-conscious product lines and sustainable sourcing to green certifications and ethical campaigns, brands are increasingly trying to align with consumer expectations and reposition themselves as socially and environmentally responsible. Marketing efforts have evolved accordingly, positioning sustainability not merely as a corporate responsibility, but as a value proposition that offers direct benefits to the consumer—such as better product quality, ethical assurance, and reduced environmental impact. However, these developments remain highly contested. Critics argue that many such initiatives amount to greenwashing, offering superficial improvements while leaving the core business model of overproduction and overconsumption intact. Simultaneously, consumer behaviour in this domain is marked by contradiction. While a growing segment of consumers expresses strong ethical concerns, this rarely translates into actual purchasing decisions—a phenomenon widely recognised as the attitude-behaviour (A-B) gap. Although external barriers like price sensitivity, trend pressure, and convenience have been well-documented, less attention has been paid to the underlying cognitive, emotional, and relational dynamics that might help close this gap and promote more meaningful sustainable consumption. Given the inherently consumer-driven nature of the FFI, understanding how sustainability shapes consumer behaviour is both timely and important. While brands increasingly integrate sustainability into customer-facing strategies, questions remain regarding how consumers interpret these efforts, whether sustainability meaningfully motivates consumption choices, and how it influences perceptions of brands. At the same time, persistent inconsistencies between consumers’ ethical values and their actual behaviour point to the need for greater attention to the psychological mechanisms underlying sustainable decision-making. Responding to these gaps, this thesis adopts a multi-dimensional perspective to examine the motivational, relational, and psychological pathways through which sustainability operates in fast fashion—spanning how sustainability acts as a driver of consumer behaviour, how brand-led initiatives shape consumer-brand relationships, and how internal mechanisms may help mitigate the enduring A-B gap across different market contexts. Research Objectives The thesis is guided by three core research objectives: First, to conduct a systematic literature review to explore how existing literature has studied sustainability as a driver influencing consumer behaviour within the FFI, identifying key theoretical and methodological perspectives, empirical patterns, and future research directions. Second, to empirically examine how customer-centric sustainability (CCS)—comprising economic, environmental, and social dimensions—influences brand trust, affective brand commitment, and brand loyalty intentions among fast fashion consumers through a sequential mediation model. The study also examines the moderating role of individual sustainability concern and compares patterns across Indian and Italian consumers. Third, to explore how psychological dispositions such as mindfulness influence the alignment between ethical intentions and sustainable consumption behaviour among Indian fast fashion consumers, and to examine the internal and external barriers that may still inhibit value-action consistency, even among mindful individuals. Structure of the Thesis The thesis is organised into three primary chapters that correspond to the overarching research objectives. The first chapter introduces the research background, the purpose of the thesis, state of the art, theoretical foundations, and research design and methodology. It outlines the relevance of the FFI as a research context and sets the stage for the empirical investigations. The second chapter presents the core empirical body of the thesis, comprising three distinct yet interconnected studies. Each study is developed in the format of a standalone journal article, reflecting a specific research objective. While methodologically diverse, the studies collectively contribute to a broader understanding of how sustainability influences consumer decision-making, brand engagement, and ethical consumption patterns within the FFI. The third chapter offers a final integrative discussion. It summarises the key insights emerging from the three studies, outlines their theoretical and managerial relevance, and discusses the study’s limitations and potential avenues for future research. Research Output Chapter Two of this thesis presents the primary research contributions through three interrelated studies that collectively examine the complex relationship between sustainability and consumer behaviour in the FFI. Each study addresses a distinct research objective using a different methodological lens. The key outputs of these studies are summarised below. The first study entitled, “Decoding Sustainable Drivers: A Systematic Literature Review on Sustainability-Induced Consumer Behaviour in the Fast Fashion Industry” is a systematic literature review that consolidates and critically examines scholarly research on sustainability and consumer behaviour within the FFI. Drawing on 108 peer-reviewed articles published up until 2025, the study synthesises how sustainability has been conceptualised and empirically examined as a driver of consumer decision-making. Guided by Blackwell et al.’s (2006) consumer decision-making model, the review develops a thematic framework comprising four key dimensions: (1) marketing strategies, (2) individual influences, (3) group influences, and (4) situational influences. The findings reveal a strong concentration on individual-level factors and marketing-led sustainability cues, alongside comparatively limited attention to social, situational, and post-purchase dynamics. The review further highlights persistent theoretical fragmentation, an overreliance on attitudinal constructs, and the enduring attitude-behaviour gap in fast fashion consumption. In addition, the analysis points to under-researched consumer segments and a strong bias towards Western market contexts, calling for more culturally diverse, context-sensitive, and methodologically integrated approaches to studying sustainability in the FFI. By identifying these conceptual, methodological, and contextual gaps, the study provides a structured synthesis of the field and outlines key directions for future research. The second study entitled, “Exploring Customer-Centric Sustainability and Brand Relationships in Fast Fashion: A Cross-National Study of Indian and Italian Consumers” investigates how Customer-Centric Sustainability (CCS)—comprising economic, environmental, and social dimensions—influences consumer-brand relationships in the FFI. Drawing on relationship marketing theory (commitment-trust theory), the study examines a sequential mediation model in which CCS perceptions shape brand trust, which subsequently fosters affective brand commitment and brand loyalty intentions. Sustainability concern is incorporated as a moderating variable, reflecting consumers’ ethical orientation and information processing depth. Using survey data from 819 consumers in India and Italy, the study applies Structural Equation Modelling (SEM) to test the hypothesised pathways and assess cross-national variations. The findings indicate that economic CCS consistently predicts brand trust in both countries, while environmental CCS shows no significant impact—highlighting consumer scepticism toward green marketing. Social CCS positively influences trust among high-concern consumers in India and across the broader sample in Italy. The sequential trust-commitment-loyalty pathway is confirmed in both markets, with moderation effects evident only in India. By unpacking both relational and motivational mechanisms, this study advances understanding of how consumer-facing sustainability strategies shape brand perceptions and loyalty. Its cross-national lens offers valuable insights for brands aiming to align global sustainability messaging with local consumer expectations in the ethically contested fast fashion sector. The third study entitled, “Bridging the Attitude-Behaviour Gap: Can Mindfulness Make Fashion Consumption More Sustainable? Insights from Indian Fast Fashion Consumers” explores whether mindfulness can help reduce the persistent attitude-behaviour (A-B) gap in sustainable fashion consumption. Focusing on Indian fast fashion consumers, the study examines how present-moment awareness, emotional regulation, and intentionality influence the alignment between ethical values and actual consumption behaviour. Using in-depth interviews with 16 consumers, the study reveals that mindfulness can reduce impulsive purchasing and encourage more reflective decision-making. However, these effects are highly context-dependent. Mindfulness alone does not guarantee sustainable behaviour unless it is supported by sustainability knowledge, moral intention, and enabling external conditions. A key contribution of the study is the conceptual distinction between practical mindfulness—which supports impulse control and general restraint—and ethical mindfulness, which is explicitly value-driven and oriented toward social and environmental responsibility. Only ethically grounded mindfulness was found to meaningfully narrow the A-B gap. The findings further highlight how structural and social constraints—such as affordability, peer norms, aesthetic appeal, and limited access to credible sustainable alternatives—can undermine even mindful intentions. By integrating mindfulness with theories of planned behaviour, cognitive dissonance, and bounded ethicality, the study offers a multi-layered explanation of why value-action gaps persist in fast fashion. Situated in an under-researched emerging market context, the study extends sustainability and consumer behaviour scholarship by demonstrating how psychological capacities interact with structural conditions to shape ethical consumption. It positions mindfulness not as a standalone solution, but as a potential enabler of sustainable behaviour that must be ethically anchored and supported by broader systemic change. Conclusion and Research Implications This thesis set out to explore how sustainability influences consumer behaviour in the FFI, with a particular focus on motivational, relational, and psychological mechanisms across both developed and emerging market contexts. Through a mixed-method research design comprising a systematic literature review, a quantitative cross-cultural survey, and a qualitative interview study, the research offers novel theoretical contributions and actionable managerial insights. From a theoretical perspective, the thesis addresses key gaps in the existing literature by adopting an integrative, multi-theoretical lens. First, the systematic literature review in Study 1 offers an integrated synthesis of existing knowledge on sustainability-driven consumer behaviour in the FFI. By organising fragmented insights through a structured decision-making framework, the review highlights both dominant drivers and underexplored areas, thereby providing a solid conceptual foundation for future empirical research. It also draws attention to the dominance and limitations of traditional theoretical models—such as the Theory of Planned Behaviour (TPB), Theory of Reasoned Action (TRA), and the Triple Bottom Line (TBL)—which are often applied in isolation and fail to fully capture the emotional, contextual, and relational complexities of sustainable consumption. The study also calls for more culturally diverse and methodologically integrated approaches that reflect the nuances of global fashion consumption. Study 2 extends relationship marketing theory, particularly the Commitment-Trust framework, by conceptualising Customer-Centric Sustainability (CCS) as a trust-building mechanism that drives affective commitment and loyalty intentions. By integrating Elaboration Likelihood Model (ELM) and testing a sequential mediation and moderation model across India and Italy, it contributes to a more nuanced understanding of how sustainability operates as a relational and motivational lever in fast fashion branding. Study 3 deepens the psychological lens by exploring how mindfulness—as a trait involving present-moment awareness and emotional regulation—can bridge the attitude-behaviour gap in ethical consumption. The study introduces a distinction between practical and ethical mindfulness and shows how internal capacities must be supported by external enablers to translate into sustainable behaviour—especially in affordability-driven consumption environments. Together, the three studies contribute to advancing sustainability, marketing, and consumer behaviour literature by refining existing theories, integrating multiple perspectives, and extending established models into underexplored settings such as emerging markets and ethically complex industries. This thesis also offers actionable insights for brands, policymakers, and educators seeking to promote more sustainable consumer behaviour in the FFI. Across all three studies, the findings underscore the importance of embedding sustainability into both operational practices and consumer-facing strategies in ways that are credible, transparent, and culturally resonant. Fast fashion brands should prioritise product quality, affordability, and durability—economic cues that consistently build trust and foster loyalty across market contexts. To overcome consumer scepticism and avoid perceptions of greenwashing, environmental and social sustainability initiatives must be supported by visible, measurable, and verifiable actions. Circular economy strategies, such as resale platforms, repair services, and recycling schemes, can help brands pivot toward hybrid models that balance affordability with responsibility. Brands should also leverage social media, influencers, and storytelling to amplify sustainability messaging, while using positive reinforcement mechanisms—such as loyalty rewards and eco-discounts—to encourage mindful consumption. In emerging markets, where consumer concern varies, communication should be segmented: functional messaging for low-concern consumers and value-driven storytelling for high-concern segments. In more institutionalised markets, consistent and credible sustainability narratives are essential to maintaining brand reputation. Beyond managerial strategies, the research highlights the need for structural and psychological enablers of ethical consumption. Policymakers and educators are urged to support transparent sustainability standards, regulate misleading claims, and promote sustainability and mindfulness education to cultivate value-aligned, reflective consumption from an early age. Together, these measures can help align business models with evolving consumer expectations and support a more responsible and resilient fashion ecosystem. Collectively, the thesis calls for a more holistic and context-sensitive approach to promoting sustainable consumption—one that integrates marketing, psychological, and relational perspectives to engage consumers in more enduring and ethically aligned ways.
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